cig easywelder manual

DDHowever if it's the same as what Gavin has described, it might be a different model. Mine has one fixed lead (with clamp) and then two electrode terminals. I spent a while looking online before posting here, and managed to find a couple of small pictures so I can get an idea of what it would look like. But they weren't detailed enough to read the numbers etc. I took a look at the transarc and that looks to be much different to what I have, mine is a portable unit.So I'm guessing the clamp is always positive and both sockets are always negative. Or it's AC.So I'm guessing the clamp is always positive and both sockets are always negative. Or it's AC. A picture would help if you can get one loaded.However recently I have been working on some projects with 10mm steel and so wanted to use the arc welder instead, plus I wanted to learn. I ran a few welds that were terrible, and after some youtube action realised what I was doing wrong (typing MIG welder trying to stick weld scenario). And I want to start doing more practice to build up my skill level, however I figured It would be better for me to know what settings I am running, and be able to reference electrode size, type, DC polarity, Amps, material thickness etc so I reference when i'm doing actual projects. Which leads me into my biggest issue, there are no marking on mine at all. All the paint is worn or rusted, and i'm flying blind. I have so far just done tests and adjusted accordingly till it worked. It would really help me out.For starters if your unit has one fixed lead I can nearly guarantee it is an AC unit.( DC units have interchangeable leads) If there are nut and bolt terminals they are there for electrode cable attachment to provide either high and low voltage to start low hydrogen and stainless electrodes. Reference the google pics to work out which is which.Typically they are marked Low and High.

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Please go to Thank you - Neil (You can dismiss this However recently I have been working on some projects with 10mm steel and so wanted to use the arc welder instead, plus I wanted to learn. I ran a few welds that were terrible, and after some youtube action realised what I was doing wrong (typing MIG welder trying to stick weld scenario). And I want to start doing more practice to build up my skill level, however I figured It would be better for me to know what settings I am running, and be able to reference electrode size, type, DC polarity, Amps, material thickness etc so I reference when i'm doing actual projects. Which leads me into my biggest issue, there are no marking on mine at all. All the paint is worn or rusted, and i'm flying blind. I have so far just done tests and adjusted accordingly till it worked. It would really help me out.However recently I have been working on some projects with 10mm steel and so wanted to use the arc welder instead, plus I wanted to learn. I ran a few welds that were terrible, and after some youtube action realised what I was doing wrong (typing MIG welder trying to stick weld scenario). And I want to start doing more practice to build up my skill level, however I figured It would be better for me to know what settings I am running, and be able to reference electrode size, type, DC polarity, Amps, material thickness etc so I reference when i'm doing actual projects. Which leads me into my biggest issue, there are no marking on mine at all. All the paint is worn or rusted, and i'm flying blind. I have so far just done tests and adjusted accordingly till it worked. It would really help me out.The amperage is controlled by pulling the central knob in and out (out for more amps). The knob turns clockwise to lock it into position. The amperage is shown on a moving strip. As far as I recall it's an AC output machine only - but it's been a long time since I had one.GN is correct in what he said about the welder.

Therefore that's what I would be doing is calibrating the dial to the positions were the electrode performs well and call it done. Adjustments depend on the electrode size diameter, the position welded and grid supply. Wether or not you can use 3.25 diameter really depends on your grip supply. Peak usage affects the grid output volts at your GPO and your little machine will work best when there is a true 240 volts available and your position on the grid supply line. Hope this helps you. Grahame From the pictures online it's definitely a CigWeld Easy Welder Electronic controlled (EC).It's definitely AC, and both terminals are driven off the same transformer (just tapped at different points), and the dial controls both outputs at once. The two points are just used to get more range from the welder. I Had a go last night with 10mm and a 3.25 electrode and it performed really well on the high output, I was able to get a solid fillet with what looks like solid penetration so i'm happy with that. On the weekend I was welding 10mm with 3.25, and I happened to be on the low setting with the dial cranked to the max (because I didn't know any better), and I managed it ok with a good clean weld, however it took surgical precision to hold the arc at such low amps.I used mine in the high setting 99% of the time using 2.5 and 3.25 electrodes. High range reads as Change to Low Range-60-80-100-120-140 Low range read as 30-40-60-80-100 Left socket is Low Right socket is High I used mine in the high setting 99% of the time using 2.5 and 3.25 electrodes. High range reads as Change to Low Range-60-80-100-120-140 Low range read as 30-40-60-80-100 Left socket is Low Right socket is High The one I have has been modified for 10A use. I have 15A available, Just wondering if I should get the correct plug put back on.The one I have has been modified for 10A use. I have 15A available, Just wondering if I should get the correct plug put back on. Feedback Buttons provided by.

Its difficult with pictures at the moment because pictures cannot be posted on our forum at the moment due to some programme glytch (which is being worked on). If you use Google and search after you click on images you be able to see all the vastly different Cigweld Easywelder models which span back possibly 50 years. From what I have seen so far theres several different variations on one shape model and a few different shapes and sizes.I owned a Cigweld Easy welder in the seventies. Other Easywelder models that followed were lunch box sized with a carry handle and front mounted twist lock handle that indicates a transformer.Another model about 200 x 200 x 400mm was on wheels and had a lift handle and a steer handle and sported a rotary twist lock amp set handle-again its a transformer. The next models with rotary dial and some had an EC designation - Electronic Control but stiil transformer based but with some form of electronic rheostat. Another came in 130 amp max and some went up to 170amp - turbo weld ( I think) As far as settings go I would say the majority of these little machines ( those up to 130 amps) are suited to use 2.4mm low carbon steel ( mild steel) electrodes. Therefore that's what I would be doing is calibrating the dial to the positions were the electrode performs well and call it done. Adjustments depend on the electrode size diameter, the position welded and grid supply. Wether or not you can use 3.25 diameter really depends on your grip supply. Peak usage affects the grid output volts at your GPO and your little machine will work best when there is a true 240 volts available and your position on the grid supply line. Hope this helps you. GrahameAnother came in 130 amp max and some went up to 170amp - turbo weld ( I think) As far as settings go I would say the majority of these little machines ( those up to 130 amps) are suited to use 2.4mm low carbon steel ( mild steel) electrodes.

You can find everything from balancers to chipping hammers, connectors, earth clamps, tip cleaners, welding cables and more at very reasonable prices. Whether it is for a light or heavy-duty operation, our accessories and spare parts will help ease your work load as well as offer a precise, fast and convenient solution. National Welding's spare parts guarantee reliability, durability and high-quality performance that make us the first place our. The fan motor still goes but the welding circuit has ceased. It is about 20 years old, any ideas. Did it not over heat. There is a savety switch that. Have no idea what happened just that the noise that the welder was making had Have no idea what happened just that the noise that the welder was making had Cigweld transtig 16 pi. It stays permanently on rendering the machine useless? It stays permanently on rendering the machine useless. Done less than 20 hrs work their is a sensor on the side of the. Something went wrong.Learn more - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab This amount is subject to change until you make payment. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab Learn more - opens in a new window or tab The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully operational and functions as intended. This item may be a floor model or store return that has been used. See the seller’s listing for full details and description of any imperfections. Contact the seller - opens in a new window or tab and request postage to your location.

All rights reserved. This website and its content is copyright of U-Beaut Enterprises. You may not, except with our express written permission, distribute or commercially exploit the content. Nor may you transmit it or store it in any other website or other form of electronic retrieval system. Working order with long Leeds. Who are we? AusChoice is a fast growing Brisbane-based online retail store specialising in the buying and selling of quality new, used and refurbished goods. It's sat in the carport for just over 12 months and now we are cleaning up and need to move it on. I switched it on yesterday, but nothing happened, so I just switched it back off. I'm not in a position to potentially fix it and I'm told it may just need the terminals etc cleaned due to sitting for so long. This item is being sold by Cash Converters Bunbury and is supplied with a 90-day warranty. Please call ahead to confirm item availability. To find out more including how to change your settings, please see our Privacy Policy Please turn it on so that you can experience the full capabilities of this site. We are currently experiencing high order volumes which may result in delays in delivery time. See Full Shipping Terms. The CIGWELD 120 Turbo Arc Welder is a portable, home welder with adjustable welding current ranging from 40 to 120 amps. Simple and easy design that operates from your standard 240v 10 amp home power point, the CIGWELD 120 Turbo Arc Welder has built-in thermal protection that guards against over-heating. This welder runs standard general purpose electrodes; 2.0mm for light gauge steel, and 2.5mm for heavier gauge materials. This welder is suitable for a wide range of materials including but not limited to mild steel, stainless steel, cast iron and alloys. Prices displayed inclusive of discount. Some In Store prices may vary.

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NSW Liquor Licence LIQP770010049 Motor Dealer Licence: NSW MD13910, VIC LMCT11156, SA MVD277714, QLD 1700072, WA MD25136. NSW Motor Vehicle Recycler Licence: M057736 Grays (NSW) Pty Ltd is a credit representative (number 509214) of CarLoans.com.au Pty Ltd (Australian Credit Licence 433137). Checked leads etc still no arc.Any common tricks with these, or basic things to look for I have missed. Steve (now feeling not so clever). Plugged it in - fan went - thought I was homme, but alas no arc. Checked leads etc still no arc.Any common tricks with these, or basic things to look for I have missed. Steve (now feeling not so clever) It doesn't sound good, Steve. These are a simple machine. I'm thinking that either the transformer is kaput or there is a loose connection somewhere. Ramp it up to full amps and see if you can get a buzz out of it (by sound, not feel!). If it remains dead, I'd unplug it and open it up and look for something obviously wrong, like the connections leading to the work and electrode cables. This is where you need a multimeter, to make sure there isn't a break in the connections. If there is nothing obviously wrong, you have to decide whether to take it to a welding repair shop. If I owned it, I wouldn't, simply because the repairs will cost more than these are worth (given that there are plenty around). The EC part of it -the electronic control is. From memory I think they were still steeped control-thats is the amps had incremental fixed points. There are some specialist repairers around with some excellent tradies. Electricians that specialise on welders are unfortunately few and far between.Yes these were the earliest of the electronic controlled models. Being not easily defeated i have kept digging and investigating. I know all about the frequent warnings of not opening machines etc etc, but feel comfortable doing so. So - cover off. Checked all leads and power cord for continuity. OK. Checked primary windings of transformer (copper) OK.

Please enter a valid postcode. Please enter a number less than or equal to 1. If you don't follow our item condition policy for returns, you may not receive a full refund. Refunds by law: In Australia, consumers have a legal right to obtain a refund from a business if the goods purchased are faulty, not fit for purpose or don't match the seller's description. More information at returns. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign. Welding system user manuals, operating guides The EC part of it -the electronic control is.. So back to the circuit board - I phoned CIGWELD, and they sent me a circuit diagram. 17 May 2016 Hi Guys, I've had a Cigweld Easy Welder (the orange coloured one) for ages now, The next models with rotary dial and some had an EC designation. Throughout this manual, notes, cautions, and warnings are used to highlight important Read and follow all the instructions in the Operating Manual. FIRE AND 8 Sep 2010. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.It's rated to 140A so is good for welding up to 10mm, but can easily weld 1.6mm too (even thinner if you knw what you're doing, but I never welded anything thinner than that). I haven't used it now for about 6 years, although I fired it up this morning to test it and it still works a treat. I remember the boilermakers at work raving about them). It's served me well, but I no longer have any use for it. For the price of LCD auto darkening helmets these days, I wouldn't bother with the old school stuff anymore though. It's been taped up with black tape for a good 10 years, although I peeled the tape off it this morning to show the damage. Since it's on the earth lead, it's hardly likely to cause a hazard, even if left uncovered. Note that one is NOT mine - I've just posted the link in case someone wants more specs on the welder. It's easy! Sign in here.

The Transarc Tradesman HD is an industrial AC arc welding machine Hello to everyone. I've just purchased an old welder, the CIG Transarc Easywelder and I can't find a manual for it online anyplace. I'm hoping This is a MKIV Toyota Supra with a twin turbo 2JZGTE and a manual transmission, way less than any others on the market because it may need a few smallmanual. Failure to supply this information may result in unnecessary delays in Manual Metat Arc welding (M.M.A.) is a basically simple welding process, where HYDRAULIC SHOP PRESS, MANUAL PUMP CIG TRANSARC EASY WELDER ARC. STAINLESS STEEL MEAT BIN, MOBILE, 950 x 650 x 600mm. 1. Service Manual for PIONEER VSXD337HLXJI, downloadable as a PDF file. For more information click here GST will be added to the buyers premium. See User Agreement If necessary please familiarise yourself with them prior to bidding on items in this sale. BUYERS PLEASE NOTE: Graysonline will not be organising transport of goods. Collection of assets is the responsibility of the purchaser, please consider this prior to bidding. Inspection of the assets is highly recommended. Bids on assets in this sale should be made based on your inspection and assessment of the goods. Descriptions and photographs should be used as a guide only. If you are unsure do not bid as no refunds will be given. Staff are onsite for security purposes only.These should be taken as a guide only. Please note that personal or company cheques will not be accepted. To assist in the processing of payments please have funds available.There are some exceptions to this, however, if there are any successful bids on a particular lot within 10 minutes of the close of the online auction (the “Going, Going, Gone. There is no limit to the number of times an online auction can be extended. This makes graysonline work more like a live auction where the bidding doesn’t stop as long as there is still interest in the product, rather than assigning an arbitrary cut-off time.

Checked secondary windings (aluminium leaf) OK. This welder has a transformer with 2 tappings (hi and low amp ranges). There is a single potentiometer which gives continuous adjustment within the amp range. The leads from the pot go to a tiny circuit board and that is about it. The 240V in is fine, and fan works. Voltage between electrode and earth is only 5V. Voltage at inputs to primary winding around 15V. So transformer most likely ok, just not getting enough power in. So fault most likely on circuit board. No visible damage (burn marks etc).Bit of research later I find this is a TRIAC (triode for alternating current) which is like a transistor for AC. Essentially a small signal current (from the pot) controls how much current flows to the main transformer inputs. Tested all resitors OK, and pot OK. So most likely candidate failed is the TRIAC (obviously it gets hot or wouldn't need heatsink). Have found a procedure to test a TRIAC, so will try that tomorrow. Will keep you posted. Steve Yes these were the earliest of the electronic controlled models. Being not easily defeated i have kept digging and investigating. I know all about the frequent warnings of not opening machines etc etc, but feel comfortable doing so. So - cover off. Checked all leads and power cord for continuity. OK. Checked primary windings of transformer (copper) OK. Checked secondary windings (aluminium leaf) OK. This welder has a transformer with 2 tappings (hi and low amp ranges). There is a single potentiometer which gives continuous adjustment within the amp range. The leads from the pot go to a tiny circuit board and that is about it. The 240V in is fine, and fan works. Voltage between electrode and earth is only 5V. Voltage at inputs to primary winding around 15V. So transformer most likely ok, just not getting enough power in. So fault most likely on circuit board. No visible damage (burn marks etc).

Bit of research later I find this is a TRIAC (triode for alternating current) which is like a transistor for AC. Essentially a small signal current (from the pot) controls how much current flows to the main transformer inputs. Tested all resitors OK, and pot OK. So most likely candidate failed is the TRIAC (obviously it gets hot or wouldn't need heatsink). Have found a procedure to test a TRIAC, so will try that tomorrow. Will keep you posted. Steve I feel like I've just given financial advice to Rupert Murdoch.:D Voltage between electrode and earth is only 5V. Voltage at inputs to primary winding around 15V. So transformer most likely ok, just not getting enough power in. So fault most likely on circuit board. No visible damage (burn marks etc).Steve Sounds not dissimilar to a problem with my transmig 160 a few months ago. I sent some digital pics of the circuit board to a techie friend and he diagnosed some potential dry solder joints on it. 10 minutes with a soldering iron and it hasn't missed a beat since:2tsup: I know next to nothing about this stuff, but find these days there is a vast array of tech and fault finding info avail on the web. So I like the challenge of nutting out a problem, and i get to learn a bit along the way. As for fault finding, Just to be sure it was the circuit board, i bypassed it (ie connect power to the transformer without electronic choke). In theory welder should weld at max amps (130). WEll is welded beatifully. So back to the circuit board - I phoned CIGWELD, and they sent me a circuit diagram. Last year they sent me a manual for my 350pulse mig, so they have been excellent. Anyway, was able to confirm all resistor values from circuit diag.I pulled the triac out and tested it with a light globe and resistor as per web, and it triggered and latched ok. Doesn't guarantee its ok, but shouldn't look here first.Sure as hell it won't be a standard IC. Doubt the capacitors are the problem.

Electrolytic's usually fail with dramatic results. I'd just touch the soldering iron to all the solder joints just to be on the safe side. Often a joint can look good but is not. Can't get a replacement so I have conceded defeat. Could have by-passed the circuit and used it as a simple 2 setting welder (like the metalcraft version of same welder), but not much point, so after salvaging work leads etc she is now in the scrap bin.Steve Well written, Steve. My sentiments exactly. I enjoy the process.:D Sounds like me. My motto is 'It ain't broken till I'm finished with it'. This is highly recommended in the case you cannot see the car yourself.You must ensure you have read, understood and agreed to the Terms and Conditions for Buying at Auction which include confirmation that vehicles are sold “as is, where is” with all faults (if any) and you must independently verify information which is important to your purchasing decision.Items may show signs of wear and in some instances accessories may vary from the standard (for example, software or manuals may be missing or different, no original packaging). Please check the description for further explanation of the item condition as we make no guarantees as to its working order. ALLBIDS recommend physical inspection to the item that you are interested in prior to placing your bid. It is important that you read the Lot Description for possible additional information on the condition of the item including any applicable warranty details. You should take the condition and the lot Description into account when you place your bid as we do not offer refunds Click here.